South of Portugal Golf: The Old Course, Monte Rei Golf Club, and Oitavos Dunes

The Old Course Vilamoura

No, this isn’t the legendary St. Andrews Links in Scotland. This course in Faro is beautifully maintained and definitely interesting, but it’s overpriced.

The fairways are narrow, the greens are tight, and somehow, despite not having picked up a golf club since October 2024, I played a surprisingly solid round. I shot a 97, which might not impress on the pro tour, but for me, it felt like a personal win.

The course itself is lovely, even if it doesn’t have a signature hole or jaw-dropping views. Still, 240 euros per person (not including a buggy) feels like a lot for a not that impressive of a course. After the buggy, it is over 300. Then again, it’s clearly geared toward tourists, so I get the markup. The clubhouse food was also pricey, especially given the underwhelming presentation and taste.

All that said, I really did enjoy the round. Great weather, great company, and way better golf than I expected. Just don’t forget your wallet.

Monte Rei Golf Club – Best ranked course in Portugal

The weather gods were definitely not on my side that day, but the course itself completely made up for it. It was breathtaking. So unique. So worth every minute.

Located near the Spain border, this course is a bit out of the way if you don’t have a car. It’s quite a drive from any major city, which adds a sense of remoteness but also makes it less accessible. Still, once you arrive, it feels like discovering a secret. While the scenery and layout are very different, I would honestly compare it to one of my all-time favorite courses, Teeth of the Dog. The best part is that it costs less than half the price and doesn’t need a caddie.

What truly sets this course apart is the design. Each hole feels entirely secluded, either tucked into a valley or perched above one. You rarely see the flag from the tee box, which adds a sense of mystery and excitement to every shot. The mountain course layout is thoughtfully constructed and in excellent condition. From the fairways to the greens, everything felt perfectly maintained. The service was also exceptional — professional, warm, and attentive.

The only downside had nothing to do with the course and everything to do with me. When we teed off, the weather was beautiful. Clear skies and sunshine, so I started in a tank top and shorts. Over the course of four hours, the skies turned. We were caught in two heavy downpours, and the temperature dropped sharply. Even after throwing on extra layers and a scarf, I was freezing. By the end, I was drenched, cold, and needed tequila to warm up.

Let’s just say my score wasn’t great. It felt like every shot I took rolled straight into one of the course’s steep, unforgiving bunkers that took minimal 3 shots to get out of. With 87 bunkers, water hazards, and hills, this course is anything but easy. But that’s exactly what made it so stunning. Challenging, humbling, and full of personality!

After finishing the round, we paid an extra ten euros for a tapas experience. What arrived felt like an entire meal. The presentation was beautiful, the flavors were rich and satisfying, and there was almost too much food to finish. Portuguese cuisine continues to amaze me, and this was no exception.

Despite the weather, this course was a highlight of the trip and one I would absolutely return to.

Oitavos Dunes

For all its fame and hefty price tag, this course was a major letdown.

Yes, it’s by the sea, so wind was expected — but it was so gusty I could barely stand still, let alone line up a decent shot. The views, while technically oceanfront, didn’t wow me the way I hoped. The links-style layout felt rough around the edges, and not in a charming, rugged kind of way.

What disappointed me most was the mismatch between the luxury pricing and the overall experience. From the service to the food to the clubhouse and even the course itself, nothing felt premium. It lacked the polish and attention to detail you’d expect at this level. A high-end experience in theory, but not in reality.